A media criticism minute: A recent write-up at New York of the decision to hire the same firm that designed Graza olive oil (I’m not a fan of the oil, it should be said) was hired to design the forthcoming NYC-run grocery stores. In the final paragraph, the writer noted that “the focus on branding feels a little strange.” I don’t think it seems strange at all, because we know that aesthetics are a major part of how people respond to food and spaces, and we also know that making government services broadly appealing and accessible to all is how we make sure they maintain funding and function. What should a government-run grocery store look like, I ask?

I had a quick (very No Meat Required) response that I posted on Instagram (it’s gotten lots of views because it’s a hot take, which I find gross, so I’ll probably archive it…), where I wrote: There’s a strange understanding in the U.S. that the food system runs on some sort of pure capitalist “meritocracy” when actually, millions of dollars are spent by corporate agribusiness on lobbying the government for subsidies—more than Big Oil or even defense contractors!

eIndustrial animal agriculture—which runs on factory farming and heavily subsidized monocrops, like corn and soy, and treats workers horribly—is subsidized with billions of dollars from the U.S. government every year to suppress prices despite its horrible environmental, animal welfare, and labor conditions.

And so why should the buck stop with using tax dollars to make city-run grocery stores more enticing? Are the only people who deserve beautiful design the people who can afford to pay a premium? Are the dignity of a pleasant shopping experience and affordable groceries diametrically opposed? If so, why?

This Sunday, join us at 2 p.m. EST for a conversation on memoir, science, and the weaving of the two featuring Joseph Osmundson, author of the National Book Award nominee Spawning Season, and Karmela Padavic-Callaghan, author of the Kirkus-starred Entangled States. Raechel Ann Jolie, author of Rust Belt Femme, will moderate. (I promise I will remember to record.) 

Sign up for an email alert or to get access, if you’re not a paid subscriber. There is a link below for paid subscribers who prefer to keep their own calendar, and I’ll also alert the Discord before the event. (The codes and links for members have moved to this page.) Basically: There are three ways to join us, so please do!

The week that I put out my piece “On Bourdain Studies,” in which I note that no other celebrity passing has ever made me as sad, Duncan Sheik died. It’s hard to explain the extent to which I loved Duncan Sheik as a teenager, because teenage girl love is a weird and intense thing, but in this case, I’ve never fielded so many condolences from others about a celebrity passing. His name was the first thing I ever typed into a search engine! I’ve been listening to his work closely again, especially Humming from 1998. Speaking of intensity, the way in which that album kicks off with “In Between” is a current obsession—one I added to the ongoing 2026 playlist, linked below. It’s got 88 songs on it thus far; I’m assuming the year will cap out around 100.

Before I change up the entire syllabus of my flagship class the Food Essay for a 2027 makeover, I’m going to teach a two-hour workshop in which we read one piece from each of the four styles of essay we discuss—reported, personal, cultural criticism, and recipe—to provide an abbreviated view on the subject for those who don’t want to commit to five weeks. 

Sign up now, for the Tuesday, October 27 edition or the Tuesday, November 17 edition: Both have options for 11 a.m. EST or 7 p.m. EST sessions. $150 for non-members; $100 for paid subscribers with the code to be found here.

Workshops on newsletter work, research, and essays are available for download. I’ve brought back one-on-one consulting and added an option for editing—you can book some time and through 12/31/26, paid subscribers get 50% off. Find the code here.

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