Procuring all of my supposed food necessities in San Juan has long been a matter of going to many stores: the SuperMax in Old San Juan for absolute basics like onions, potatoes, yogurt, canned beans—stuff I go through quickly; the SuperMax de Diego in Santurce for olives, tahini, garlic, mushrooms, and other—stuff that’s necessary but rotten or nonexistent at our smaller, touristy supermarket; Costco, for oils and other pantry staples; the internet or trips to New York for hoisin sauce, various noodles, black vinegar, chili crisp, and tomato paste as well as canned tomatoes; and a store called La Hacienda for “fancy” vinegars, mustards, Spanish potato chips, and other bits and bobs.

I would only go there on occasion, and to be honest, I hated that they focused so much on imported goods and seemingly zero Puerto Rican items. It’s a store for an older clientele (I know that I’m 40, so I’m speaking generationally) that still believes Spain has the best of everything. No offense to Spain—¡España, te quiero!—but enough of this Old World standard. Except for the chips and olives, please—keep ’em coming.

Enter Hilda Deli, from the team behind everyone’s favorite Café Regina and the gone but not forgotten Pernilería los Proceres, Mario Juan Pagan and Kali Solack. They opened up this cheese counter, sandwich shop, and highly curated grocery store a few months ago. Because of their deeply appealing aesthetic sensibilities, it’s been as immediate a social media hit as Café Regina has been for years. Because of their wildly good taste, the selection of goods is impeccable. Because of their commitment to local sourcing, Puerto Rico is actually present in their selections. They even have a book section, run in conjunction with Casa Riel. 

They’ve stuffed a small spot with everything you need to up the ante of the day to day, which is what I want from a specialty grocer. There’s gandules (pigeon pea) miso and carambola (starfruit) vinegar from Productos Aúna; ginger beer by La Quinta Nube; pints of the best vegan ice cream from Vía Lactea; kimchi from Microbvio; frozen pasteles from Doña Barbara; fresh pasta made in-house; local eggs; and all the sorts of tinned fish, jams, and vegan gianduja one would expect.

Local produce and fruit is present on the sandwich and snack menu, of course. It’s a beautiful expression of what it means to be grounded locally but enjoying globally. I’m very glad that when I get the shoppy-shop bug and want to add something fancy to my pantry, that I can support a place that’s supporting small makers living and working on the archipelago—and selling books!

And there’s more! This past Monday, Materia Prima opened in Old San Juan from the team behind Caleta Café and PRoduce, supplier of local agriculture products. It’s a gorgeous space, with a restaurant and a lot of prepared foods, as well as coffee and a bar. The idea that I can go get produce any day of the week in my own neighborhood that I know is fresh and supporting local suppliers? Legitimately life-changing. Hilda and Materia Prima are reflective, too, of the tiny shops of places like Panoteca San Miguel and Malavita, which one goes to more for bread or sandwiches than shopping. But all of this is representative of a big grocery shift in the metro area.

Onward into the rest of the eating, cooking, and drinking of the past few weeks.