I went to find the list I’ve been keeping in my Notes app for this post and right there was something from February 15 of this year when, at 1:08 p.m., I’d tapped in: “The first read is reaction; the second read is reading. From there, when you are so inspired, you can get into a piece deeper to figure out how it works.” I assume already, based on my many spins around the internet, that some folks might think, How pretentious. To which I’ll say, you might not be reading deeply! (Writing with the internet in your head, which I’m doing right now because the stress of our days-long water outage caused me to mindlessly scroll a lot, is always bad.) 

This is what I try to instill in my essay workshops—which are about writing, but are really about reading and re-reading and what we learn from our reactions about the work we want to do and how we can break down a piece through its structure, its tone, its everything. I try to get everyone to go beyond reaction and relatability.

What happens beyond the second read? Something like absorption, maybe. Something like a relationship. In our first meeting of the June sessions of “the food essay,” one participant asked about essays that “feel like friends.” I immediately thought about Rene Ricard’s “The Radiant Child,” which I re-read so often it takes on the rhythm in my mind of an incantation. Here, below the fold, are more of the works I return to constantly to remember how and why to write.

Programming Note

I thought yesterday’s Salon with Eli Davies, author of The Spinster Cookbook, would be the last before a summer break—find a preview as well as the full recording, already uploaded—but then the opportunity to invite on Tunde Wey (chef and artist) and Theo Schear (filmmaker) to discuss their new 6-part series Hard to Swallow, which chronicles Wey’s career journey, the making of the show itself, and investigates the role of the city and racism in food scenes. Join us on Tuesday July 21 at 2 p.m. EST for the conversation. I’ve already watched the show and it’s fascinating—it’ll be available on TVOD on July 1. Members join free and have access to the full Salon Series archive.

Upcoming Workshops

Three essay workshops in July and August: personal, reported, and cultural criticism. These will be presentations followed by discussions, and the different months have different reading lists. Each has three essays to read—no food included, a mix of old and new. Choose day or evening sessions. $100 for non-members; $75 for members; $50 for Friends of the Desk; free for Tomato Tomato Patrons (latter two, email me for your codes). 

The Food Essay will return in the fall. You can also book a private consultation or get my workshop downloads.

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