Food writing about culture.

Carlo Petrini, the founder of Slow Food, passed away earlier this week. I did not know him, but I write and think about food in the wake of his influence. My thinking on food systems—that they should be regional and agroecological when feasible; that they should be equitable to people, land, and animals; that they must not be run by bloated agribusiness for that to be the case—is basically the Slow Food ethos. Raj Patel characterized Petrini’s perspective as being borne of the belief that “there’s nothing too good for the working class.” I’ll drink to that, and we have a couple of pieces here that can suggest a good tipple with your weekend reading.

In this issue of Tomato Tomato, which focuses on conviviality as lifestyle and lifeline, we have Anne Jomard writing on a foraging guide that Slow Food Editore published in 2022. We also have Skylar Renslow on why cask ale invites conversation in English pubs; Lari Burgos on the conviviality of Cointreau in Anjou, France; Sarah May Grunwald on the fantasies of food while medically fasting in a Roman hospital; Rebecca Duras explains how to read salad menus in Serbia; Lauren Tu-Ying Bo in conversation with Tiny Chef about char siu tofu and heritage in St. Louis; Anna Ansari chronicling a ski trip in Bulgaria; Luis Alexis Rodríguez Cruz on the language of Puerto Rican restaurants (presented in English and Spanish); and Gan Chin Lin with a longform piece on the labor and gastronomic politics of Singapore’s school canteens—plus fiction from the recipe comments section by Julia Tausch.

Thank you to contributing editors Devin Kate Pope and Simi Sonubi for their invaluable help in shaping this edition.

ISSUE 2, TABLE OF CONTENTS

“Her tofu can fool a meat-eater, and yet, it doesn’t attempt to mimic meat; rather, it’s prepared with so much care that it would never occur to you to want anything more.”

“This cake turned out great and was perfect for our holiday table, though I did make some small substitutions. My father can’t drink, so I subbed the rum in the soak with an equal amount of Robitussin which—before you say anything—he is allowed to have.”

“It is the language I learned first; it is the one in which my grandma left me her recipes. It is the only language my mother speaks.” “Es el idioma que primero aprendí; es en el que mi abuela me dejó sus recetas. Es el único idioma que habla mi madre.”

“The clandestine Belle Epoque–era anarchist propaganda of the Cointreau brothers’ day has given way to graffiti dialogues in spraypaint, wheatpasted queer art, and flyers inviting antifascist action. Today, city-sanctioned murals create a bland backdrop against which a vibrant underground art scene radiates.”

“The mirage of effortlessness and template menus in the central kitchen model is at odds with how canteen workers have long anchored a crucial domestic space that uniquely combines food labor and care work: one which inducts young Singaporeans into a collective sense of gastronomic, sociocultural self.”

“A Serbian kafana, or traditional restaurant, should have an interior so smoky it makes your eyes water, tables laden with platters, shot glasses full of rakija (the local brandy), and, on weekends, musicians with cash sticking out of their accordion ribs. Even Serbs from other regions are forced to admit that the hedonistic, gourmand city of Niš in the southeast has the best kafane. ”

“I haven’t had food or a beverage in a month, but food is ever-present. I am not hungry, but I hunger. My days pass in the future tense: what I am going to eat and when I can eat again. As I write this, no food or drink has passed through my mouth in a month. I have an obstructed bowel, along with other complications of Crohn’s disease.”

“Back at The Woolpack, the squeak of the old wood floors began to crescendo as muddy boots spilled into the country pub for the night. Eventually, that window behind the bar was fogged over as the small room filled to standing room only, with men and women, young and old alike. Spend enough time in a busy pub and it’s inevitable that you’ll talk to strangers. For me that night, it was Paul.”

“While today, popular Italian cooking is not necessarily associated with vegetarianism, Pieroni’s work reminds us once again that traditional folk-cooking is rooted in availability: the herbs were there, free and generous, in a way that meat could not be.”

“We are one of two international flights to arrive at the Plovdiv airport this morning—so says the sole, undersized arrivals board that’s written in utilitarian, monospaced, geometric block font that I think is pretty cool. The entire airport is kind of cool, with its concrete and glass, patchy plaster fixes, and burgundy and forest green pleather benches. I am shocked to find out it was built in 2009 and not 1979.”

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