This is an exceptional piece of writing, and I can tell I'll be returning to it often. Having lived most of my life in small towns in the Rocky Mountain West (now western Montana), I haven't typically had a lot of choices of restaurants and, overall, restaurants have not played a big part in my life or in my relationship with food. When friends came from more urban areas -- Atlanta, LA, Chicago -- for our wedding last year, I remember how delighted many of them were to find that even our small town has a coffee shop that they recognize as being their kind of place. But of course it does; our little town is on one of the major roads that goes to Glacier National Park, a place of spectacular natural beauty slowly being worn down, in part by having too many visitors. We are widening the highway to accommodate more of them, too. We will generously accommodate tourists, even unto the death of the thing that has brought them here.
Oh, thank you so much, that means a lot. I’m so sorry, though, to hear about yet another place being overrun by tourism!
And yes, the role of restaurants in culture is so interesting—all about expectations, assumptions, performance, what one’s accustomed to… they’re not the be-all, end-all of food as you note: and yet!
Love this reflection and admire you for this decision to not cover that facet of food. I’m curious your thoughts on gatekeeping particular places as a local even if you know that sharing them will be good for the business
Thanks so much. It really depends on the type of place: if it’s one that can handle and is welcoming of tourists, sure. If it’s a place that is best and does brisk business as being for locals (the dive I mentioned up top), then I won’t name it or share anything about it. The thing that sucks in San Juan and the bigger towns of the west in PR especially is the way places will forget locals even exist. Service is also oriented in many places toward temporary people, so there’s not the sense of wanting to build a relationship with regulars—this is really true post-pandemic.
I’ve also felt my personal co-sign for spots in SJ has put weird expectations on me from business people. I’d rather not have that kind of attention.
This: a really great, reflective and thoughtful, column today. Now that I am finally objectively old, and have finally recognized how shallow I am, I do my living where I reside. Great observations about hiw many are harms inflicted humans chasing experiences. Also, the best words about taste and subjectivity I have read in a long while.
My situation is different, but I can't get away from writing about food because I love it. I think in many ways it's because I eat by myself so much. I want to talk about the food I like and eat with people. Because I'm excited. So I share through writing. I don't like to think of it as criticism because I have no credibility. More like delayed speech.
I mean, I write constantly about food and love it more than anything! But restaurants aren’t the only way or even the chief way I interact with it. I think the criticism, good criticism, of restaurants and cities is invaluable!
Great read. I hardly ever read restaurant reviews - except Jay Raynor, a legend of the dry wit. But otherwise it feels absurd to read reviews of places in my own city that hardly ever serve vegan food and even if they did are too expensive. We have now narrowed our eating our treats down to 3 local favourites. One is cheap and famous, the others mid range and popular but you can usually get a seat at any without booking too far ahead. We never tire of them, though of course are open to adding another if it comes along.
Well I appreciate your recommendations. Still thinking of all the places I tried last time based on your advice and hoping they will still be there when I can go back again.
I'm always happy to make suggestions, especially if I know who you are! But I refuse to be like "these are the best TK" for a wide, faceless audience. It doesn't serve the city.
This is an exceptional piece of writing, and I can tell I'll be returning to it often. Having lived most of my life in small towns in the Rocky Mountain West (now western Montana), I haven't typically had a lot of choices of restaurants and, overall, restaurants have not played a big part in my life or in my relationship with food. When friends came from more urban areas -- Atlanta, LA, Chicago -- for our wedding last year, I remember how delighted many of them were to find that even our small town has a coffee shop that they recognize as being their kind of place. But of course it does; our little town is on one of the major roads that goes to Glacier National Park, a place of spectacular natural beauty slowly being worn down, in part by having too many visitors. We are widening the highway to accommodate more of them, too. We will generously accommodate tourists, even unto the death of the thing that has brought them here.
Oh, thank you so much, that means a lot. I’m so sorry, though, to hear about yet another place being overrun by tourism!
And yes, the role of restaurants in culture is so interesting—all about expectations, assumptions, performance, what one’s accustomed to… they’re not the be-all, end-all of food as you note: and yet!
Love this reflection and admire you for this decision to not cover that facet of food. I’m curious your thoughts on gatekeeping particular places as a local even if you know that sharing them will be good for the business
Thanks so much. It really depends on the type of place: if it’s one that can handle and is welcoming of tourists, sure. If it’s a place that is best and does brisk business as being for locals (the dive I mentioned up top), then I won’t name it or share anything about it. The thing that sucks in San Juan and the bigger towns of the west in PR especially is the way places will forget locals even exist. Service is also oriented in many places toward temporary people, so there’s not the sense of wanting to build a relationship with regulars—this is really true post-pandemic.
I’ve also felt my personal co-sign for spots in SJ has put weird expectations on me from business people. I’d rather not have that kind of attention.
This: a really great, reflective and thoughtful, column today. Now that I am finally objectively old, and have finally recognized how shallow I am, I do my living where I reside. Great observations about hiw many are harms inflicted humans chasing experiences. Also, the best words about taste and subjectivity I have read in a long while.
Thanks so much! And all credit to a recent re-read of DISTINCTION by Bourdieu for my thoughts on taste, lol
Wahh, hate my sloppy thumb posting.
My situation is different, but I can't get away from writing about food because I love it. I think in many ways it's because I eat by myself so much. I want to talk about the food I like and eat with people. Because I'm excited. So I share through writing. I don't like to think of it as criticism because I have no credibility. More like delayed speech.
I mean, I write constantly about food and love it more than anything! But restaurants aren’t the only way or even the chief way I interact with it. I think the criticism, good criticism, of restaurants and cities is invaluable!
but that good good criticism is not easy to find
Nope—it takes money and a fearlessness. Independent writers don’t have the protections to do it as well as it needs to be done.
Great read. I hardly ever read restaurant reviews - except Jay Raynor, a legend of the dry wit. But otherwise it feels absurd to read reviews of places in my own city that hardly ever serve vegan food and even if they did are too expensive. We have now narrowed our eating our treats down to 3 local favourites. One is cheap and famous, the others mid range and popular but you can usually get a seat at any without booking too far ahead. We never tire of them, though of course are open to adding another if it comes along.
Thoughtfully argued and expressed, and right on the money. Love your work, Alicia.
Thanks so much, Denise!
Well I appreciate your recommendations. Still thinking of all the places I tried last time based on your advice and hoping they will still be there when I can go back again.
I'm always happy to make suggestions, especially if I know who you are! But I refuse to be like "these are the best TK" for a wide, faceless audience. It doesn't serve the city.