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Millicent Souris's avatar

This is the question more and more people need to know to ask-we’ve accepted advertising like it’s the air we breathe. I’m also going to put it out there that maybe the success of the Graza olive oil is the ease of it being in a squeeze bottle

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Alicia Kennedy's avatar

It’s all the bottle! We had those! 🤣

And yes, advertising becoming the air, the way discussing brand attention and sponsorship is so easy and common—it’s been a creep that has gotten so suffocating and surreal.

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Martha Bayne's avatar

This is so on the money. Literally, as you point out, as “ money is the point of business,” ha ha. I really appreciate that you’re able to name this without shame because I think that acknowledging this helps pave the way to building a more ethical/meaningful/powerful practice of doing media. Or content creation I guess. We’re not going to get anywhere if people keep pretending they don’t have to make a living.

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Alicia Kennedy's avatar

Thank you! And yes I think the insidiousness of the brand partnerships and ads allows for this obfuscation of the money-making. Like if you get paid to do something that looks like everything you already do then the labor disappears—and I think that does dangerous things!

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Lauren Lester's avatar

Alicia, this hit so close to home, and yes, we can do food media better! We just have a very uphill battle to climb.

Food media, digital at least, is dominated by SEO. I was a food “blogger” from 2011 to early 2023. The way to have any chance at making a living was to get as many people to your site as possible. That’s hard to do when discussing anything that goes against mainstream views. I was told by many in my network that we’d be better off not talking about sensitive topics. If our food were less quinoa and more “American” with more beef, cheese, and bread, we’d make more money. Still, we made a modest living for two and were pretty happy.

My partner and I went plant-based in 2020 and 2021, respectively, so I was glad to finally exit our last remaining site in early 2023. I planned on shifting my work to fit my sociological and food justice background and interests through writing and continuing with freelance recipe development and photography. Crickets.

For some reason, I was naive in thinking a decade-long career was worth more than an extensive list of followers, but that has not been my experience. I know it will be infinitely harder or possibly impossible to ever publish another cookbook without a following, but new followings are so hard to build these days in such a noisy digital space, especially as someone who is exhausted from the constant hamster wheel of content creation.

I’ve also found that working solely within the plant-based niche, I get many more responses like, “We’re a small brand that can’t compete with larger non-plant-based brands, so we don’t have a budget.” They do have budgets for influencer campaigns, though. I’m often asked for my social numbers when prospective clients reach out for recipe development or photography work…226 isn’t getting me very far.

The future of food media is up to all of us to search out voices we respect who are doing good work and to support and uplift those voices. I so appreciate your work!

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Alicia Kennedy's avatar

So interesting, Laura, and I’m sorry to hear about your experiences in trying to shift narratives—it’s obviously an uphill battle! I have been lucky to be “just” a writer and deal with SEO and ad money only as a tangential concern, and I think it’s also why I’ve done my best writing on food for non-food outlets.

But it’s getting harder and harder to rely on and grow when the only funding is subscriber money, and people are more squeezed. Obviously the solution is “don’t grow” but I want to create the space in media for food writing that I want to see—the fight continues!

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Kristin Donnelly's avatar

Your description of press trips is giving me anxiety. I did a little bit of travel journalism back in the days when the publication paid for everything. Alas!

It was much less stressful to craft a story or a series of them without a PR person breathing down your neck and filling up your inbox with follow up.

In addition to the influencer economy, I also think about all the media folks who finally just gave up and started working for/with tech companies and other big business. Me included!

It works well for me because it’s not that draining and I can still take on passion projects without worrying about the financial side of them. But no doubt something is lost when you have so many culture workers now using their creative energy for massive brands.

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Alicia Kennedy's avatar

Press trips are so miserable, lol. But I also don’t really like doing travel stories so it was sort of a win-win: I got to the place, did one mediocre piece that probably no longer exists on the internet, got tons of other material / experience.

And yes, it’s interesting to see folks get swept up in corporate from culture work. I obviously understand and I envy the stability!

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Kristin Donnelly's avatar

It’s false (or at least temporary) stability! Companies do massive layoffs all the time. I lost what I thought was a stable contract last year. I feel like I can’t fully relax because of that. Knowing how to find work — whether freelance or otherwise — is so important in the U.S. where there’s no true stability in the form of a social safety net.

And 😭 to stories that no longer exist online. (In the case of your travel article, maybe it’s fine.) Of all the stories I did for Food & Wine, including some profiles and trend pieces I liked a lot, what’s left on the website are the SEO clickbait pieces I wrote for them after I went freelance.

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Eli Curtis's avatar

Stay goofy! Love the perspective you bring to food thought...business and money be damned! Slow growth and enduring passion won't make you rich but it will enrich you, even support you.

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Cathy's avatar

I decided that the infuencer thing was going too far when I had a marketing firm suggest I pay some food entrepreneur influencer to mention my food safety consulting firm. Ridiculous.

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Alicia Kennedy's avatar

I was asked to do a digital commercial for a cookware brand I’d never used—the money could’ve been good but at what cost? Also I hate being on video 🤣 It’s a huge frustration!!!

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Duke's avatar

Off topic for this post. I finished reading your recent book last night. Loved it, even though I fit the support local more than veggie pure side of things. I woke up this morning to this article I feel fits perfectly with your thoughts on tech bros and future food… https://www.axios.com/2024/03/11/chipotle-founder-kernel-robots-vegan-new-restaurant?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=newsletter_axioswhatsnext&stream=science

What could be better than robot created and delivered food? The answer to the question I have been too slow to ask myself.

Enjoy your morning.

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Alicia Kennedy's avatar

Thanks for reading and sharing this link!!! I’m excited to read.

I am more on local, too! Thus the hope for an alliance between the veg and conscientious omnivores.

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Carlos Hernandez's avatar

“How the economic cookie crumbles” is certainly one way to put it.

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Alicia Kennedy's avatar

🤣

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Mar 11, 2024
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Alicia Kennedy's avatar

100%. I also think it's important to recognize that it can become another exploitative mode (I mean, isn't that capitalism's way!) and figure out ways to fight against it. I know it would be hard for creators to organize their labor, but it also feels so urgent!

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