Love that I immediately know that the "don't buy tomatoes in winter" line is the very Pollan-influenced PS on the last page of McFadden's Six Seasons. I love the recipes in that damn book but every time there is a hint of personality it's nails on a chalkboard for me. One comment about manly salads is too many.
Thanks for another wonderful essay, Alicia! Loved the thoughts from Abra, and any encouragement to think more broadly than the mainstream encourages us to.
I loved reading this! Berens' perspective resonates so much with me, even just based on our geographic proximity. In early summer, so many people in Wisconsin get very excited about the Tree Ripe Fruit Company truck coming to town loaded with Georgia peaches. While, yes, the first peaches of the year ARE exciting, Wisconsin yields its own a couple of months later. To me, waiting a little longer makes the local peach harvest feel all the more special and enjoyable. Parts of Wisconsin have become wine-making regions recently, too. I reminded my mother-in-law that grape harvesting season is just about to start here, to which she replied that you can get grapes at the store year-round. So much of what has potential to grow here is overshadowed by big-ag growers in California, Mexico, South America!
Yes! And it’s so wrapped up in these big questions about consumer habits and expectations, shifting mindsets away from immediately having something. But then too how is it done accessibly/equitably?
Yes! Thank you. The dominance of New England in our cultural lexicon is so strong. I grew up in North Dakota, where spring and fall were extremely short and the winters were very long and cold. Local foods, especially fruits, were kind of limited in any season other than high summer, and even then August was usually exceptionally hot and dry. But I think that's why North Dakotans have such strong feelings about rhubarb and chokecherries. When I moved to New York for school, I had to adjust my ideas of what could be planted in the garden (no more restrictions to zones 3 and 4!) and what was in season.
I'd be interested to see how Michigan and New Jersey compare in terms of agricultural diversity, since Jersey is famously the "Garden State."
Ooooh this is so insightful! And it's fascinating, the dominance of the New England season as THE season. It's why graphics about "what's in season this month" drive me batty—which season? where?!
Oh man, I have a whole theory on this, mainly the cultural and financial dominance of the Northeast in the early 20th century, its similarity to Europe in terms of climate (which was also hugely culturally dominant and still is), and the development of "American" foodways being very closely tied to New England foodways, usually in connection to colonial revivals in fashion in the 1910s/20s, 1940s, and 1970s. But yes, it's annoying AF, even while I live in the Northeast! Because climate change is also changing those seasons and assumptions about what is available when. Vegetable farmers, orchardists, and maple syrup folks are all struggling with the effects of climate change - wetter summers, warmer springs with late-season frosts, periodic droughts followed by torrential rains, getting too hot too quickly (that really impacts maple sap runs).
I'm new to foodwriting; reviving my mom's vintage food-letter this year has been entertaining in its own way. I appreciate how your words and topics continue to expand my often-simplistic views on food. Every post brings me closer to the uncomfortable spaces I had no desire to occupy, until now.
As a farmer in Puerto Rico it is so validating to read that you are only seeing crap tomatoes, as we are currently growing some crap tomatoes (and beautiful other things). The summer sunburn really got all of us without shade houses this year!
I’m so happy you’re here!!! This summer has been WILD with the heat. I would love to talk more about this with you, if you’re interested! I might ask some other farmers, too, to share their experiences and publish a roundtable.
Terrific newsletter, as per 'the uzh' :) After reading it, I was struck by how many thinkers/writers/activists you've introduced me to: Abra Berens, Aja Barber, Tove Ditlevsen, Carol J. Adams . . . and I know there's more. I find your work incredibly valuable and am so grateful for it. And I read your book! Brilliant! I know this is all very fan-girly, but it's the only place to let you know :) Carry on, young warrior 💜
I'm happy I don't live anywhere near you, Alicia...I'm confident I would follow you around, hoping to have some of your brilliant writing seep into my veins...
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and using your voice...
Love that I immediately know that the "don't buy tomatoes in winter" line is the very Pollan-influenced PS on the last page of McFadden's Six Seasons. I love the recipes in that damn book but every time there is a hint of personality it's nails on a chalkboard for me. One comment about manly salads is too many.
Thanks for another wonderful essay, Alicia! Loved the thoughts from Abra, and any encouragement to think more broadly than the mainstream encourages us to.
😂 thank you!
I loved reading this! Berens' perspective resonates so much with me, even just based on our geographic proximity. In early summer, so many people in Wisconsin get very excited about the Tree Ripe Fruit Company truck coming to town loaded with Georgia peaches. While, yes, the first peaches of the year ARE exciting, Wisconsin yields its own a couple of months later. To me, waiting a little longer makes the local peach harvest feel all the more special and enjoyable. Parts of Wisconsin have become wine-making regions recently, too. I reminded my mother-in-law that grape harvesting season is just about to start here, to which she replied that you can get grapes at the store year-round. So much of what has potential to grow here is overshadowed by big-ag growers in California, Mexico, South America!
Yesssss! I am always just wondering how we get people psyched on these things--how do we make everything become as exciting as august tomatoes???
Yes! And it’s so wrapped up in these big questions about consumer habits and expectations, shifting mindsets away from immediately having something. But then too how is it done accessibly/equitably?
Yes! Thank you. The dominance of New England in our cultural lexicon is so strong. I grew up in North Dakota, where spring and fall were extremely short and the winters were very long and cold. Local foods, especially fruits, were kind of limited in any season other than high summer, and even then August was usually exceptionally hot and dry. But I think that's why North Dakotans have such strong feelings about rhubarb and chokecherries. When I moved to New York for school, I had to adjust my ideas of what could be planted in the garden (no more restrictions to zones 3 and 4!) and what was in season.
I'd be interested to see how Michigan and New Jersey compare in terms of agricultural diversity, since Jersey is famously the "Garden State."
Ooooh this is so insightful! And it's fascinating, the dominance of the New England season as THE season. It's why graphics about "what's in season this month" drive me batty—which season? where?!
Oh man, I have a whole theory on this, mainly the cultural and financial dominance of the Northeast in the early 20th century, its similarity to Europe in terms of climate (which was also hugely culturally dominant and still is), and the development of "American" foodways being very closely tied to New England foodways, usually in connection to colonial revivals in fashion in the 1910s/20s, 1940s, and 1970s. But yes, it's annoying AF, even while I live in the Northeast! Because climate change is also changing those seasons and assumptions about what is available when. Vegetable farmers, orchardists, and maple syrup folks are all struggling with the effects of climate change - wetter summers, warmer springs with late-season frosts, periodic droughts followed by torrential rains, getting too hot too quickly (that really impacts maple sap runs).
I'm new to foodwriting; reviving my mom's vintage food-letter this year has been entertaining in its own way. I appreciate how your words and topics continue to expand my often-simplistic views on food. Every post brings me closer to the uncomfortable spaces I had no desire to occupy, until now.
As a farmer in Puerto Rico it is so validating to read that you are only seeing crap tomatoes, as we are currently growing some crap tomatoes (and beautiful other things). The summer sunburn really got all of us without shade houses this year!
I’m so happy you’re here!!! This summer has been WILD with the heat. I would love to talk more about this with you, if you’re interested! I might ask some other farmers, too, to share their experiences and publish a roundtable.
A wholehearted yes! I'm always happy to share our experiences and am very intrigued by the idea of a roundtable.
Terrific newsletter, as per 'the uzh' :) After reading it, I was struck by how many thinkers/writers/activists you've introduced me to: Abra Berens, Aja Barber, Tove Ditlevsen, Carol J. Adams . . . and I know there's more. I find your work incredibly valuable and am so grateful for it. And I read your book! Brilliant! I know this is all very fan-girly, but it's the only place to let you know :) Carry on, young warrior 💜
This means so much to me!!! Thank you!!!
I'm happy I don't live anywhere near you, Alicia...I'm confident I would follow you around, hoping to have some of your brilliant writing seep into my veins...
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and using your voice...
Hahaha! I think I’d learn quite a bit from you, Jack!