as an existential threat.
Super enjoyed this, your snob-check button is a favorite! I started following your work because woven into everything was a voice that gives a shit- indelibly - and I so respect and appreciate how you’ve maintained that voice as your platform and audience grows. Like a witty little greeter at the food culture forest gesturing us down the path of accountability and becoming curious about doing better via rants with receipts written w a whole bunch of love for what we are and who we can be if we can find a way to care about each other a little more in everything we do. Thank you.
I am ALWAYS here for the rant! :) And I can't wait to read about organic farming and white supremacy. I'm especially keen on the calling out of who has power here: vegans/natural wine/winemakers OR freakin' agribusiness and the government? I'm always stunned when folks defend corporations like they are their best friends. Off topic, but I'd love to know if you watched the Puerto Rico episode of Padma Lakshmi's "Taste the Nation" and what you thought of it. Also: I kept expecting to see you there!
“That’s not really the basis of sound argument.”
Also, congratulations on the best American food writing! 🙌
Love this piece. We need to stop rarefying food and wine that are made as they ought to.
I loved this! I am always here for a rant against misguided snobbery (and a supporter of snobbery for the right reasons, lol).
I also can relate so much to feeling a bit less overwhelmed in the kitchen during the week if I allow myself to pass some things off to Jeff (he now makes pizza dough to ferment so that it's ready on Friday, a day I'm often too tired to think of anything to make). What a concept!
Congratulations! Finally not just a honorable mention!
As an ex-drinker and quasi-vegan who’s had it with hate-filled socials (but evidently a believer in the dash as the most important punctuation mark?) I was like, nah. Not gonna read this. But I did and it was terrific, as always, and thank you.
PS: my kingdom for a husband who cooks alongside me even if I, too, am a control freak.
Spot on. There's a very lauded natural wine bar where I live that I went to with friends, and as a vegan had to eat plain bread (not too bothered, honestly, this is my food of choice), because even items that seemed nominally vegan or could easily be made vegan were definitively not, per our server. Oh well, still enjoyed the wine (and bread).
I very much enjoyed your rant...and anyone who can rant like that deserves to be supported through a paid subscription - I'm looking forward to following all of your work (future rants included)... 😊
Well-said! I first tried finding natural wines when I was diagnosed celiac and had sensitivities to eggs. I had no idea before then that eggs or salmon had anything to do with wine. I rarely drink any wine because it gives me a headache but I would like to try natural wine.
omg I am so excited they chose your ‘Restriction as possibility; lifestyle as politics’ essay for best food writing - I had recommended that essay to them/Bittman (unsolicited! it was just them asking for recs, and am sure I could not have been the only one), it was so wonderfully brilliant, but quite different from so much ‘food writing’ did not know what they would make of it
and then today’s newsletter - so much to love in it, but Denise and Kalilah said everything but better than I could have, so I’ll just defer to their great comments
Thank you for this article. The anti-articles have been exhausting to say the least.