I grew up on pastelillos de carne, though that’s not what we called them. I don’t know what we called them at first, because I was a baby, but eventually they became empanadas—a catch-all term for savory Latin turnovers. When I started visiting Puerto Rico and specifically the kiosks of Piñones, though, I realized they were pastelillos, though some also call them empanadillas: flaky fried dough filled with, usually, spiced beef, chicken, or crab. My mom always made them with beef and stuffed Spanish olives. I loved the bites with olive most, even when I was just a toddler. I was born for salt.

Want to know what’s cooking?
For restaurant, bar, wine, recipe, and cooking suggestions, become a member.
Join the Table