A Conversation with Wilson Dávalos

We talked about his career changes, the various accessibility of fresh produce in Puerto Rico, and the uncertain future.

Wilson Dávalos and I had our first conversation in 2015, for The Awl. It was a depressing talk about the difficulties he was having sourcing greens for his restaurant CLMDO (a stylized take on “colmado”—a bodega in New Yorker parlance), which was then located in Isabela, on the west coast of Puerto Rico.

We would talk more over the years, even through t…

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